Modernism, in Africa
After Barcelona, Melilla holds the largest concentration of modernist architecture in Spain, and the largest anywhere on the African continent. The reason is one architect. Enrique Nieto worked under Gaudí on Casa Milà, arrived in Melilla in 1909 at twenty-six, and never left, building for the rest of his life until his death in 1954. His influence on the architects around him was strong enough that the styles are now difficult to separate.
One architect, four faiths
Nieto designed Melilla’s principal synagogue, its central mosque — built between 1945 and 1947, its façade carrying horseshoe arches and geometric ornament against an otherwise modernist structure — and buildings for the city’s Catholic churches. The city’s plural character is not a slogan retrofitted by a tourist board; it is legible in the buildings.
Melilla la Vieja
The old fortified town rises straight out of the sea: successive rings of walls, bastions, magazines and tunnels cut into the rock, looking north over the water. It is the obvious place to understand the city’s shape, and it faces the direction the shadow will come from.
The coast
Beaches within the city, a working port, and open Mediterranean beyond. The water is the reason the yacht option exists here at all, and the reason the days before the eclipse are easy to fill.
The table
The cooking follows the population: Spanish, Moroccan, Sephardic and Amazigh traditions in the same small city, with Mediterranean fish as the common ground. It is one of the more genuinely distinctive things about the place, and it is where we spend a lot of our planning time.
Getting around
The city is compact enough to cross on foot, which matters more than it sounds on eclipse morning: transfers are short, positions are close, and the logistics that will be difficult on the mainland coast that week are manageable here.